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I just picked up a 600 watt amp, the directions are pretty simple, however what is the difference between bridged and unbridged.



My bass box is 300 watts (2x150 watts 8") plus I have 2x100 watts 6x9 (not installed yet, boxes and place to put them needed) all of this going into a 1988 Suzuki Forsa (smaller than a Swift).



I've never installed an amp myself before, how easy is it to royally screw things up?

It is very easy to blow both your speakers and your amp if you have no idea what you're doing. I can almost certainly guarantee you'll fry your amp if you try to hook this up without help, judging by your questions.



Get someone who knows what they're doing.



The difference between bridged and not bridged - if you have a two channel amp, and you have one speaker, you want to bridge both channels into one. If you have a four channel amp, and two speakers, you want to bridge two into one and two into the other. There are many, many, many wiring configurations for an amp and speakers.



If you want instructions, you're gonna have to post brands and models so we know what we're lookin at.



Again, my suggestion is to find someone who knows what they're doing, and if you're gonna do anything with your amp, disconnect your battery before you touch anything.

Agreed, im running 2 12's (infinity of course) and a Precision Power amp. Takes alot of research and time to figure out how to hook it all up right, but once you do, a basic configuration can be a cakewalk.

I'm trading computer work for having a profession install my amp :)

how'd it go?

how'd it go?



I took the amp back, even with a 1 ferad capasitor I still didn't have enough juice in my charging system to run all the extras. when my amp was running, my lights and horn didn't.

with a 1 farad cap you didn't have enough to run a 600 watt amp? A one farad cap is good for a minimum of 1000 watts. You have electrical problems in your car..? Any car should be able to run a 600 watt amp with ease, without a cap (your lights will dim in idle, thats about it).

man, a 1 farad cap is a band aid to the real problem.



Red Top Optima Battery and a new Alternator will fix the lights dimming problem and also keep your electrical system in check (voltage drops and spikes can do some serious damage to vital computer components in modern vehicles)



I run 2x12" MTX 6000s, MTX 801D mono amp (925watts rms on the birth sheet), 2x200watt rms 2ch Crunch Amps (Made by Hifonics USA). Let me tell yah a little about lights dimming. At stop lights, my truck would almost die. I ran a cap, it did NOTHING... a cap takes way too long to recharge and it will not fill between bass hits fast enough to be worth the money. Upgraded my wiring and electrical system and all the dimming is gone and no more voltage spikes.



Through all the calculations I have done, my system (THEORETICALLY) can eat up to 110amps in short bursts... (I have seen something close as my breaker tripped at 100amps.)



I would suggest figuring out what amperage your alternator puts out. If it is only 60amps at 3k rpm, then I suggest finding a much beefer one before you invest in adding an amp to your stereo. Also if you run a 4guage wire to the amp, you SHOULD also upgrade the ground on the vehicle to that same guage wire. In doing this it made a huge difference on how the stereo system sounded on a few vehicles I worked on and also got rid of "Engine Noise".